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Up until the beginning of the 17th century, Ethiopia had what was locally referred to as a ‘mobile capital’. But in 1632 Fasilidas took the throne and proclaimed Gonder as his capital, where it remained for the next 200 years. As king and emperor Fasilidas not only ushered in a period of relative calm in Abyssinia’s turbulent history he also built a stupendous fort at this strategic location – added to by his successors – most of which is still intact. Wandering around the fort’s spectacular turreted citadels, vast banqueting halls and bathhouses leaves you in no doubt whatsoever as to the importance of this Christian kingdom 400 years ago.